Full lips have had a lot of attention recently. The “cupping” method of using suction to engorge ( like here )the lips has certainly seen it’s fair share of press. Unfortunately, it’s also a method that can cause serious damage to tissues, (fails) capillaries and even cause tears in the lips and skin. Ouch!
A better, although certainly less dramatic, way to make lips appear fuller is by using cosmetics and 1, or more of the following methods, to enhance the shape and size. Realistically all of these should be subtle, anything to obvious, like way overdrawing the lip line, just ends up look false, and contrived. Many of the over photoshopped and filtered, 20+ product to achieve, looks you see on Pinterest and Instagram, would also look terrible in person; often with thick, cakey makeup, and obvious lines and colors. BUT that shouldn’t stop you from enhancing what you DO already own!
Overlining/overdrawing lips. This one of the hardest to actually” get right” and make look natural in person. Up close people can see your natural lip line so don’t go overboard with this one. The easiest way to keep it very natural looking is to keep your corners the same, but only overdraw right along the edges towards the centers of the lip lines – top and bottom. keep the shade you choose just slightly darker than the color you will fill in lips with.
as you can see in this pic on the left, the overdrawn area is very small just outside the top of the lip line, the color used is only 1 shade darker than the center lip color, and it still meets at natural corner. This all works together to add to the lips fullness.
This brings us to our next hint which is a super easy one- and that’s shine. Shiney, glossy lips instantly appear fuller, because they catch and reflect light. One of my favorite makeup artist tricks is to add a really shiny gloss just to the center of both top and bottom lip. Too much gloss all over can give the look of just having finished some greasy fried chicken- not the prettiest look, and can lead to lipcolor bleeding, so again, subtle is the key word of the day, and keep it just to the centers.
Another great tip to enhance lips to appear fuller is to choose matte or cream colors, and stay away from colors that are too dark. Frosty, or satiny colors call attention to lips imperfections, but also distract. ( the exception here would be a dab of a lightly, colored satiny shade in center of lip like method I describe below- a little goes a LOONG way!) Colors that are too dark also draw focus, and create high contrast between lighter skin and very dark lip only further enhancing a thin lip line, and actually making even full lips look less so! Women of color can get away with darker shades, but again only a few shades darker than their skin tone, and balance it with our next tip, which is:
Highlight the center of top and bottom lip with a lighter color lipstick over the primary shade. Gloss, or even a shadow like a gold! Adding a lighter color or highlight directly to the center of the lip, and gradiating it out until it blends away, is a great way to enhance lips fullness, but still appear subtle. For the most natural look, use a lipstick in the same color family but 1-2 shades lighter than the deeper color used. Blend out by tapping with finger or gently with a flat lip brush to feather out.
Highlighting and contouring lips. Highlighting and contouring have also had a lot of press lately- some good, some bad, and frankly some examples are just dreadful. But, again if done subtly, it doesn’t have to look obvious. By using a highlight (matte, 1
shade lighter than skin, would be the most natural, but I love a good gold shimmer as long as not sparkly) Use a narrow brush, and sweep a bit of highlighter (concealer works too) just on the cupids bow of the top lip. blend out by tapping w finger or sponge, and if powder gently blending out with fluffy brush. Then underneath lip, take either a foundation, or concealer 1 shade darker than skin tone, ( or contour shade IF the correct shade AND you know how to use this without going overboard!) gently place a small amount directly under the center of bottom lipline and blend out all edges until it disappears. One of the BEST things about all of these is that you can combine any, or ALL of them if you choose, and STILL have the ability to keep the look natural, and not overdone. Fuller lips that look flawless, and not fake!
Our sample of the week is Pinky Luster Highlighter (so you can practice highlighting those puckers!) One free sample in every full-sized order.