Everyone’s first thought is wrinkles! And yes, they obviously appear as we age, and lose volume in our skin, but that is NOT the number one reason you look older than you do!
Looking tired or worn out, whether from lack of sleep, illness, plus redness, discoloration, age spots, lack of exfoliation ( which actually leads to a greyish cast to the skin from unexfoliated dead skin), not merely wrinkles, contribute to you looking older than you are! I see 25 year olds with wrinkles from the sun, or laugh lines- I rarely see healthy 25 year olds with all of the other issues I mentioned above!
One of the most aging looks is Undereye discoloration or bags or both- let me explain because I have people sit in my chair everyday claiming they have “bags” under their eyes- when they do NOT! A bag is not darkness, that is called discoloration. Bags are puffy, distended, and/or sagging skin under the eye- and even sometimes in the lid itself. The may also have discoloration as well whether blue, purple, red or brown and any combination of these. HOW you deal with these depends upon WHAT and Why they are there. Many times bagginess is heredity, and nothing short of surgical intervention is going to erase them. If it is due to allergies, lack of sleep, reactions, often using products that contain tannins (like tea bags) or eye products with caffeine can be wonderful at reducing the puffiness. As can addressing the problem causing them- get more sleep!
While there are no “one size fits all” guaranteed tips, A few makeup tricks that I employ to minimize the appearance of baggy under eye skin involves careful cosmetic placement. Using cosmetic theory ( A part of color theory employed by professional artists) is the use of light and shadow (also used in contouring and highlighting) Light colors make things appear to come forward, dark colors make thing appear to be pushed backwards. therefore since baggy skin is already protruding, never place a lighter shade on that area, instead I use a concealer 1 shade darker than skin tone in the center of the baggy area and diffuse it outward by blending. I then place a concealer (or corrector if area also has discoloration, which it often does) in the deeper, depressed area found under the bag, which usually falls right at the area where the bones of the orbital socket are located- the infraorbital foramen and the Zygomatic Bone. Lightly adding a foundation, powder, liquid or cream is skin’s exact shade if needed can further enhance correction. I also be sure to bring blush higher onto cheekbone and even very slightly onto the depressed boney ridge. Often this gives the appearance of a higher cheekbone and further “lifts” that area.
Discoloration, is areas darker than your skintone. They can be found anywhere. Often caused by heredity, allergies, injury, and sleep deprivation, when under eye, and on face I most often see Blemishes, broken capillaries, and sunspots from sun exposure. Any of these can range from blue, red, purple, brown and even black, and I often see a combination. Discoloration benefits from a correcting concealer. Again using Color Theory- whichever shade counters the discoloration present blue=orange/peach, Red= green (though I prefer a fleshy yellow.) Brown benefits from a salmon pink or even a reddish tone within the same depth as your own skin- so with blue discoloration light to medium skintones would use a light peach shade and deeper skin tones a deeper peach to orange. This color correction applies no matter where on your face it appears. Gently press the correcting shade over ONLY the area of discoloration, blend, I often prefer using my finger, then stipple foundation shade over and feather out to blend. (Stippling or bouncing motion is often best so as not to remove what you just applied) with a foundation that exactly matches your skin tone. It really is that easy, but be warned, each spot or area needs to be individually corrected, you cannot simply apply a think mask of makeup over, or you will LOOK as if you are wearing a mask of makeup. Also, don’t forget to correct the lid as well- this will make your eye makeup look truer, and even make you look better rested!
great skin care- like Mario Badescue, Suki, Tatcha, Ole Henrickson, are just a few brands that have some great skin care treatments, whether for under eye, or exfoliation, or simply adding lipids or hydration back into skin with the right formula of products. Taking care of skin, and finding products that address your specific issues is important, so take your time to do the research needed. Many places will offer samples as well.
I cannot stress enough the daily use of sunscreen. Many of these issues of aging wouldn’t exist on your skin at all if you add this simple step to your daily makeup/skin care regimen.
Lastly, subtle, but brightening makeup- choosing colors that mimic shades that occur naturally in youthful skin! As I mentioned Aging skin can often appear greyish in cast, this is caused by slowing cell turnover, so in addition to an exfoliating product, using brighter colors can give a very immediate brightening effect to the skintone. Bright pinks and peaches, especially in blush can actually draw attention away from undereye issues, and create an overall brighter looking complexion. For my aging client, Brighter, not dustier shades are my go to every time-just keep them sheer so skin can glow through.
In Foundation, Look for products that add a tiny bit of luminescence to the skin I love a matte foundation that still offers the sheen of real skin. (which is matte, but not flat).
This weeks sample (with any full sized order) is Poppy our #1 selling blush!